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I had never heard of Sylt before I spoke to someone at Lanserhof via email. After a quick Google search, I learned that it was often referred to as “The Hamptons of Germany.” Turns out it’s a North Frisian island with sprawling dunes that make you feel like you are on Mars. The weather is unpredictable, and the wind whips almost all day. The houses are all topped with a particular kind of traditional thatched roof that makes them blend seamlessly with the landscape. It was the perfect setting for an eight-day solo fasting retreat.
Landerhof had been in my peripheral for years. It’s a longevity clinic whose Web site describes it as the “world leading institution in holistic medicine,” integrating alternative healing with state-of-the-art medical science. I had heard plenty of glowing personal recommendations from mostly hot chicks who reside somewhere in Europe. It’s a place people with a substantial bank balance visit to reset their bodies through a signature method called “The Lanserhof Fastenkur,” which is essentially a doctor-led fasting program that eliminates toxins and helps the body regenerate healthy cells.
The facility is immaculate and modern, with blonde wood and a dramatic white spiral staircase that connects the entire building. There is a world-class gym with a climbing wall, a sauna large enough to hold an NBA team, an indoor and outdoor pool, and countless Eames Lounge Chairs covered in a nubby neutral fabric facing windows. My room was on the second floor and had surprisingly good Wi-Fi, a terrace for contemplation while gazing out at the sea, and an endless supply of glass-bottled water. A custom pair of Lanserhof Birkenstock Arizonas in my size was waiting in the closet. When I arrived after a noisy and debaucherous wedding weekend in Sicily, the vibe felt like the perfect palate cleanser.
My first full day started at 7 AM with blood work and a myriad of tests. I don’t love being poked and prodded before noon, but when in Rome. This was also the first day with no coffee, a part of the deal I knew was coming but was deeply unprepared for. Coffee is the only thing I have left; without it, I felt foggy and lost. The food is, well, not the point. My daily breakfast consisted of a plain bowl of coconut yogurt, two small pieces of toasted fermented bread, and a small side of avocado. Lunch was a vegetable, and dinner was soup with a vegetable side. The ingredients were of the highest quality, and the presentation was excellent, but getting comfortable with being hungry proved to be a much more complex challenge than I had anticipated. At the beginning of your stay, you pick a table in the dining room and eat every meal alone at that same table. Everyone faces out towards the window and is instructed to chew every bite 40 times.