If you need any further proof that watch collecting is finally taking enthusiasts’ opinions into consideration, take one good look at Justin Bieber’s Royal Oak. This isn’t the standard, and beloved, “Jumbo,” but a petite take on the reference in white ceramic with rose gold accents. Whereas the Jumbo measures in at 39 mm, Bieber’s is a downright diminutive 34 mm.
It would have been unthinkable for a man to wear a watch like this just 10 years ago. Now? Not so much. However, in the past few years, collectors have shown that their tastes are far smaller watches that wear a little easier on the wrist. Consumers have been practically begging for brands to add less-huge watches to their lineups. Maybe Bieber was one of them all along. Brands like AP listened, dropping the 34-mm Royal Oak in 2020 not as a dedicated ladies’ line, but as simply a 34-mm version of Gérald Genta’s famed luxury sports watch. It’s still got the collection’s signature octagonal bezel; it’s still got a matching integrated bracelet; it’s still got a “Grande Tapisserie” dial; and it’s still got a thin automatic movement. (The Audemars Piguet cal. 5800, for those counting.) It’s just…smaller.
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Nowadays, the Royal Oak comes in a massive range: vintage-inspired “Jumbos,” larger complicated versions, 41mm time-only versions, mini versions measuring just 23 mm in diameter. So why would Bieber spring for a more feminine, white-and-pink-gold design? Probably because he understands the beauty of a smaller watch. If you’ve never rocked a 34-mm watch, we would highly recommend it. Models such as the classic Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Air-King from the mid-20th century are comfortable, incredibly varied, and relatively affordable compared to their larger sport models. Patek Philippe Calatrava-style dress watches measuring anywhere from 31 mm to 36 mm slip right under a cuff and look wonderfully elegant framed against a larger wrist. And smaller watches don’t necessarily mean dainty, either. The A-11 worn by American servicemen during the Second World War measured just 31 mm. It was only in the 1990s and early 2000s that Panerai and IWC broke our brains. Thankfully, both brands seem to be coming around.
We’re now living through a period in which watch companies large and small are offering their flagship models in an incredible array of sizes and configurations, and many of them aren’t differentiating between men’s and ladies’ pieces. From the Cartier Tank to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, from the IWC Ingenieur to the Omega Seamaster, classic watches now come in every conceivable flavor under the sun, meaning there’s no reason that a smaller-wristed (or larger-wristed) person shouldn’t be able to find something that fits well and looks dope.
As for Bieber’s white ceramic RO? It’s not just the watch’s size that counts here, after all. Ceramic is lightweight, hypoallergenic, scratch-resistant, and more. Colored ceramics—such as those offered by everyone from Rado to IWC to AP—are wildly cool, with white making for a particularly summery, carefree look. Combine that with a smaller case, and you’ve got a recipe for a perfectly baller timepiece. This is the perfect watch to clock when Bieber is standing on business.
