For anyone trying to figure out how to maintain a buzzcut, we get it: Not only is the buzz cut having a resurgence (hello, Brad Pitt), but it’s a trim as old as time that never goes out of style. A buzz cut is effortless, and a look most guys have rocked at least once, if not turned into an annual ritual when the weather warms up.
“The buzz cut is great not only style-wise—short and clean—but also because when we think of summer, we think of warmth, travel, and low maintenance,” David Connor, master barber and owner of Anti-Gravity Salon in New Orleans, says.
Few cuts match its simplicity built-in, no-fuss cool. That said, while it may appear low maintenance, buzzing your hair at home comes with a learning curve. I should know.
A few years ago, I decided to try it myself (Ewan circa Trainspotting was the inspo), but I learned it’s not as simple as running clippers over your head. I’d missed areas and left strands longer than others, and as I tried to fix it, I’d throw off the balance more. Different guard lengths personalize the cut, and there’s a technique and nuance to doing it right.
A buzzcut remains one of the few haircuts many guys can manage themselves with a bit of know-how (though a visit to a pro now and then for a cleanup doesn’t hurt). That’s where this guide comes in: to walk you through how to buzz your hair at home and maintain it. You might not end up looking like Brad or Ewan, but you’ll know how and where to start and what you’ll need to keep it a cut above the rest.
In This Guide
What You’ll Need
It might seem like a buzz cut is as simple as it gets—just run the clippers across your head and call it a cut, right? Not quite. While it’s one of the easier styles to manage, cutting it properly at home takes know-how and, importantly, the right tools—from quality clippers and guard attachments to often-overlooked items like a proper mirror setup and a soft-bristle brush. With expert input from Connor, here’s what you’ll need to nail and maintain a killer buzzcut.
First and foremost, invest in a good, powerful cordless clipper. Cordless models give you freedom of movement-especially helpful when navigating the back of your head. Consider it an investment that will pay dividends over time. Look for a durable model that has adjustable speeds and comes with a range of guard attachments. We also recommend a foil trimmer to clean up the back of your neck.
Clipper guards—or attachments—control the amount of hair left behind, and they’re crucial for achieving the desired length. Investment clippers should come with a set. “I recommend guard sizes from 0.5 up to a number four for the buzz cut,” says Connor. They’re numbered accordingly: lower numbers mean a shorter cut, while higher numbers leave more length. “Depending on hair density and texture, each guard size will play a different role,” he explains. “If you have fine hair, a number three may look as short as a one. And with thick, coarse hair, a number one can appear as full as a three, so guard length doesn’t just determine how short the hair is—it also influences how dense the cut looks.” When in doubt, start with a higher guard and work your way down.
You can’t clean up spots you can’t see. “An excellent mirror system will make the buzzcut at home even easier,” Connor says. A dual mirror system—or even just a handheld mirror to check the back of your head—allows you to ensure it’s even all around. It’s something you don’t realize you need until you don’t have one. Invest before you buzz.
Keep the bath towel for bathing. “I recommend a cape because it’s much lighter weight and easier to clean than a towel,” Connor notes. “It’s a great investment overall.” Also, if you plan to maintain the look at home consistently, consider a simple mat to catch hair on the floor that you can pick up and shake out to keep cleanup easy.
This might fly under the radar, but a brush controls flyaways and is crucial for maintaining and cleaning a buzzcut. “I recommend a soft-bristle brush that’s small enough to fit in your fingers or the palm of your hand,” says Connor. “It helps remove the micro debris between each strand of hair to give you a cleaner finish as you buzz.”
A cooling balm or a lightweight moisturizer will soothe freshly shaved skin and prevent irritation. SPF is also highly recommended if spending more time outdoors.
Sun Bum
Scalp & Hair Mist SPF 30
Prepping for a Buzz Cut
Before you even pick up the clippers, ensure your hair is clean and completely dry. “I recommend doing your buzz cut on clean hair,” says Connor. “If you’ve got product buildup or your scalp is oily, the hair sticks to your hands and tools and makes the whole process less easy and messier.” It might seem counterintuitive to shampoo right before, but washing (and drying) your hair beforehand makes for a cleaner cut and a smoother overall experience. In a pinch? Connor suggests wiping down your scalp with a hot towel. Just remember clippers glide best on dry hair, so let it dry completely before using them.
Connor recommends starting with a higher-number guard and adjusting from there. “If this is your first time, start with a number four and see how that looks. You can always go shorter.” Once you’ve picked your guard length, begin at the top of your head and work against the grain using light, even pressure. “This avoids leaving clipper guard lines,” he adds. For guys with wavy, curly, or coily hair, though, the approach is a little different. “Go with the grain instead,” Connor explains. “This keeps the texture intact and avoids disrupting your wave pattern.” He also recommends brushing as you go to help the clippers glide smoothly for a more even result.
Step 2: Taper as You Go Down
As you move from the top of your head to the sides and back, tapering the length will give your buzz-cut shape and intention. “Let’s say you use a number three on top,” says Connor. “Drop down to a number two on the sides, then taper into a one-and-a-half or one around the sideburns.” The same logic applies if you’re starting shorter—a number one on top should blend into a 0.5 guard on the sides, with an open taper for the hairline. “This helps create a balanced head shape,” he adds. “For most people, the sides and back are naturally fuller, so leaving the top slightly longer helps it look more even and polished.” And don’t forget to use mirrors to check your progress. “Make sure to use a handheld or mirror system to check the back and ensure everything’s even.”
Step 3: Finish with the Perimeter
For a pro-level finish, use a trimmer to clean up the edges and use foil shaver on the back of your neck. “Outline the hairline around the perimeter,” Connor recommends. “It gives your buzz cut a sharp, professional look. Just because you’re doing this at home doesn’t mean you can’t use the same techniques barbers do.”
Meet the Expert
David Connor is an accomplished hairstylist, master barber, and owner of the acclaimed Anti-Gravity Salon in New Orleans. With over 20 years of experience, he serves as an international educator for BabylissPRO and Hattori Hanzo and has taught his work in 12 countries, including all over the US. With a strong focus for gentlemen’s grooming, his work has also graced New York Fashion Week and Miami Swim Fashion Week. Passionate about education, David elevates beauty professionals and empowers clients with expert tips on trends and at-home care.
