There are a lot of watches on the market these days, but you tend to hear about some of them more than others. That isn’t, of course, a knock on unquestionable grails like the Cartier Tank and Rolex Submariner, which have more than earned their places among the most iconic watches of all time. But in certain circles—and, uh, corners of the internet—their ubiquity does rob them of some of their surprise-and-delight value.
Fortunately for anyone looking for an alternative to the usual suspects from the big Swiss luxury brands, there’s a whole world of timepieces out there that are as startlingly original as they are oddly slept-on. These are the ones we’re eyeballing right now.
The Rolex Yacht-Master
The Submariner earned its reputation on the wrists of serious undersea explorers in the 1960s and ‘70s. The full-gold Yacht-Master, by comparison, is best known as the watch David and Victoria Beckham wore for their engagement shoot in 1998. Does this make the Yacht-Master any less of a Rolex than the much-coveted Sub? It does not. Does it make it just a teeensy bit more fun? Heck yes, it does.
The Omega Railmaster
When your siblings are as famous as the Seamaster and Speedmaster it can be tough to stand out, and that’s been the story of Omega’s perennially slept-on Railmaster since it launched in 1957. This 2017 reissue, however, demands to be appreciated. With the vintage charms of the original (check the “broad arrow” hands and clean 3-6-9 dial) and Omega’s modern co-axial Master Chronometer movement, it’s the definition of a sleeper.
The Hermès H08
This Parisian maison might be best known for its saddles, Birkins, and ties, but its watch lineup has been on a steady heater in recent years. Among the most tempting offerings from the gang at 24 Faubourg Saint Honoré is the titanium H08, a stylish—and characteristically whimsical—answer to a sea of uninspired sports watches.
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1968
The world’s oldest watchmaker isn’t prone to hyperbole, so when they call something the “Ultra-Fine,” you’d better believe it’s going to be hot. This sleek square ticker, which is part of the brand’s Historiques line of archival re-issues, lives up to its name more than half a century after it first hit the streets.
The Breguet Classique Automatic 40
Abraham Louis Breguet was the godfather of high-end watchmaking, and the brand that bears his name still cranks out some absolute bangers. The Classique is an exercise in 19th-century old-school cool, from the grand feu enamel dial—an age-old technique that produces an incredibly rich sheen—to Breguet’s eponymous hands and numerals. Those who know know, and now you can be one of them.
The Franck Muller Casablanca
Franck Muller watches are a bit like Wes Anderson movies or the oeuvre of the Dave Matthews Band—you kind of have to love ‘em or hate ‘em. As with Wes Anderson, Muller has a very specific aesthetic signature of barrel-shaped cases and funky art nouveau numerals that might not be everyone’s cup of tea. Like Dave Matthews’ greatest hits, however, if you spend enough time with it—and this yellow-gold Casablanca is no exception—you’re probably going to end up a fan.
The A Lange & Söhne Lange 1
With a legion of diehard fans, including many members of the watch Illuminati, A Lange & Söhne isn’t exactly underrated, but it still deserves more recognition than it gets. To understand what makes the Lange 1 such a flex requires a fair bit of extremely nerdy horological lingo, but here’s the gist of it: Lange creates watches on par with, or even better than, Patek Philippe, but does it in much smaller quantities and with much less fanfare. The Lange 1 is where it all started, and wearing one is nigh guaranteed to win you a nod of approval from your most watch-obsessed friends.
The Breitling Transocean
Breitling makes a lot of nice chronographs, but most of them tend to be on the chunky side, with cases in the range of 40mm-plus. If you’re in the market for a classic chrono with more diminutive proportions, the discontinued Transocean lineup offers a bunch of excellent alternatives, including this 38mm specimen.
The Zenith El Primero Original
Daytona, schmaytona. Sure, sure, the Rolex Daytona is the world ’s most coveted chronograph, but the humble El Primero offers a very similar makeup with arguably more historical street cred. Not only was Zenith the first brand to build a modern chronograph, but its movements were so renowned that Rolex used them in the Daytona for more than a decade.
The Omega Speedmaster Reduced ‘Michael Schumacher’
It’s not a hot take to suggest that this collab between one of the world’s top watch brands and the Formula One GOAT deserves a much better name than the “Speedmaster Reduced Michael Schumacher.” Its ungainly name, however (which is a reference to its 39mm case size), doesn’t take anything away from the watch’s absolutely smoldering Ferrari-red dial.
The Breguet Tradition 7057
Luxury watches that show off impressive movements through their dials are very much a thing these days, and most of them—if we’re being completely frank—do not look better for it. This is an exception. Instead of flexing a big ol’ tourbillon and a bunch of complicated-looking parts, the 7057 keeps things tight with a dial that’s both highly readable and mesmerizing to look at.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Despite its vague resemblance to the iconic Cartier Tank, the Reverso is very much its own thing, with a unique swiveling case initially intended to protect it from flying polo balls. Add to that a timeless art deco design and a movement courtesy of one of Switzerland’s most respected makers, and you have the makings of an underrated classic.
