Roger Federer made quite an entrance at the Laver Cup in San Francisco this week, wearing a handsome tux with matching shades, but he reserved most of his heat for the wrist. The tennis legend wore a blue sapphire-studded, obsidian-dialed, white-gold Rolex Daytona.
As a Rolex Testimonee, of course, Federer has access to all the good stuff, from the unquestionably rare “Le Mans” Daytona to the positively un-gettable off-catalog pieces. This ref. 126599TSA is of the latter type: It’s one of those watches that’s not publicized by the brand, so finding accurate information about it is only really possible when an important client receives an allocation and posts about it. (Or when Rolex puts one on your wrist. Hey, as Mel Brooks famously said: “It’s good to be the king!”) But the gist of it is this: We’re talking about a 40-mm white gold Daytona with all the usual refinements—screw-down pushers, Oyster bracelet, etc.—but with lots of special treatments.
First of all, there’s the glut of 36 gleaming, baguette-cut blue sapphires ringing the bezel; then there are the 54 brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the mid-case and lugs. Then there’s that stunning dial: Made of silver obsidian—which forms when lava cools nearly instantaneously without the time to form the crystal structures present in many other types of rock—it has a glass-like sheen that changes subtly from grey to black to silver depending upon the light. Atop this incredible background are applied hour indices set with yet more baguette-cut blue sapphires, which are complemented with blue typography within the chronograph registers. Within the watch beats the automatic Rolex cal. 4131 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve, and finishing the package is the brand’s famed Oyster bracelet in white gold.
While this piece was technically revealed to select parties during the Watches and Wonders trade show in early 2025, there was no fanfare around it. The Crown doesn’t share news publicly and the piece wasn’t shown to journalists. That’s because this is what we call an “off-catalog” piece: Effectively, it means that this is indeed a serially-produced watch with factory-set gems, but that it doesn’t appear on the Crown’s website; it’s not spoken about; etc. TL;DR: If your last name ain’t “Federer,” “DiCaprio,” “Mayer,” or “Wahlberg,” good luck getting an allocation.
Typically, it’s on the most ornate gem-set pieces that carry this type of designation: Daytonas with leopard-print dials or Day-Dates with higher carat weights than the Crown Jewels. These watches are incredibly labor-intensive to make, as sourcing and fitting gems with the desired degree of flawlessness and uniformity of shape and color is daunting. Furthermore, obsidian is a naturally occurring material, and shaving thin slices of it to a uniform size and thickness means a certain percentage of failure. Each one of these extremely rare watches is thus technically unique, making it even more special.
Tom Brady’s Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400R
Taking a page out of Federer’s book, Tom Brady wore a gem-set take on the Patek Philippe Nautilus to the Eagles-Chiefs game in Kansas City. Measuring 40.5 mm in 18K rose gold, it features the model’s signature porthole-inspired shape and matching, integrated bracelet but adds 893 round-cut and 182 baguette-cut diamonds—roughly 20 carats’ worth, for those keeping score. Beyond all the shiny rocks, it also boasts an interesting chronograph configuration. The dual pump pushers control a single sundial above 6 o’clock, displaying both 12-hour and 60-minute scales, while a date window at 3 o’clock adds further utility. The entire shebang is powered by Patek’s in-house cal. CH 28-520 C automatic movement.
Leonardo DiCaprio’s Rolex Land-Dweller
Leonardo DiCaprio strapped on the Rolex Land-Dweller during an event in Mexico City for his new film One Battle After Another. Equipped with a flat, integrated take on the Jubilee bracelet and a honeycomb-pattern dial, Rolex’s newest model boasts the cal. 7135, a movement featuring several exciting new technologies: Chief amongst these is Dynapulse, a type of hybrid escapement that melds the best from the traditional Swiss lever escapement and Breguet’s natural escapement, adding efficiency and increasing resistance to shocks and magnetism. It’s also Rolex’s first hi-beat movement, vibrating at 5 Hz (36,000 vph) as opposed to the more typical 4 Hz.
Danielle Fishel’s Patek Philippe ref. 3319
Eagle-eyed horological detectives might’ve picked up on a particularly sparkly bit of jewelry gleaming from the wrist of Boy Meets World actress Danielle Fishel during her turn on Dancing with the Stars this week. In point of fact, this wasn’t a mere bracelet, but rather the Patek Philippe ref. 3319, a manually-wound cocktail watch fitted to a gorgeous 18K yellow gold woven bracelet. Measuring just 19 mm in diameter, it’s the type of midcentury piece that collectors have been scooping up lately, which is why horological authority and expert vintage watch dealer Eric Wind hooked Fishel up with one to wear during her performance. (Prices for these tend to hover in the $8 to $20K mark…much more affordable than your average off-catalog Daytona!)
Marlon Wayans’ Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon
As Monty Python once said: “And now for something completely different.” Witness Marlon Wayans in a downright mesmerizing Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon at the premiere of Justin Tipping’s Him. (If you recognize this reference, it’s because none other than Jay-Z wore one last year not long after its debut.) Machined from black PVD-coated titanium in the shape of an engine, it not only tells the time and features a 30-second flying tourbillon, but also includes a full automation sequence of a V16 engine block. (The watch isn’t called “Tourbillon” merely for the complication, but rather for the Bugatti model that carries the same horologically-inspired name.) List price? $340,000.