Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks grab the headlines, but when it comes to raw nature, the jewel of Montana is the 1 million-acre Bob Marshall Wilderness. “The Bob,” as it’s affectionately called, was named for legendary conservationist Bob Marshall, who cofounded the Wilderness Society. No paved roads bisect The Bob, an area larger than Rhode Island, making it a vast wilderness where only horse and foot travel are allowed.
We sent adventurer Max Djenohan to explore The Bob and its famous geologic feature, the Chinese Wall. Turn up the volume and listen to his adventure and then read on for trip-planning advice so you can experience The Bob yourself.
Wildlife Galore
One of the great benefits of protecting a refuge the size of The Bob? It’s a haven for wildlife of all kinds. Elk, moose, deer, mountain lions, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, wolves, lynx, bald eagles, and black and grizzly bears roam freely here. For the well-prepared visitor, the reward is a wilderness soundtrack with plenty of birdsong (“omnipresent,” according to Max) and always the tantalizing possibility of hearing something bigger rustle through the forest.
Wandering Waterways
From the trickle of alpine streams to the roar of whitewater, there’s a symphony of sounds here as snowmelt turns to rivers. And since the Continental Divide runs through the heart of the Bob, that symphony also divides watersheds: The waters cascading down east-facing peaks will reach the Missouri River and end up in the Atlantic Ocean, while on the west side, runoff collects in the Flathead River’s South Fork and eventually reaches the Pacific.
Fly-Fishing
The splashing of fish joins the Bob’s soundtrack, particularly on the South Fork of the Flathead River. It’s home to the largest population of genetically pure West Slope cutthroat trout in the country and one of the only legal bull trout seasons in the lower 48 (July 1-31, permits required). The cutthroats aren’t huge but are known to rise quickly for dry flies. “If I didn’t need to keep hiking, I would have stayed there all day,” Max says.
The Chinese Wall
The Bob’s standout geologic feature, the Chinese Wall, consists of rock layers that were once part of an ancient sea. The 22-mile escarpment rises to 1,300 feet and can be seen towering over wildflower-dotted meadows and tall larch trees for miles. But the view from atop the Wall is unrivaled: You’ll see miles of pristine forest and alpine peaks unfolding before you, hearing only the sound of the wind and your own footsteps.
The Hiking Route
To trace Max’s route, begin at South Fork Sun Trailhead. Continue north on the Continental Divide Trail for 12.5 miles to the White River North Trail, and follow it 22 miles to Larch Pass. Rejoin the CDT at the north end of the Chinese Wall and hike four miles along its base. (Camping is prohibited on this stretch; camp with a view of the Chinese Wall at White River Pass.) After Cliff Mountain, hike the CDT for 20 miles back to the South Fork Sun Trailhead.
You don’t find Montana. Montana finds you. It’s not about checking off stops or taking the scenic route. It’s knowing the distant mountain you saw yesterday can look different tomorrow and stay unchanged for years to come. It’s silences that buzz, rivers that rise, and stories that stick with you.
