For anyone heading down the road of serious watch obsession, it won’t be long before you get on first-name terms with the main characters of the luxury watches universe. As you’ll inevitably soon discover, however, Speedies, Subs, Daytonas, Tanks, and Royal Oaks are really just the tip of a very large iceberg.
While these icons are deserving of a place in every top-shelf collection, a well-honed appreciation for the many underrated, undervalued, and otherwise slept-on tickers is the true mark of a connoisseur. We asked one such data-oriented connoisseur, Bezel founder Quaid Walker, to name the tickers he thinks are most likely to become more iconic with age. Here’s what he had to say.
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Rolex Submariner “Hulk” Ref. 116610LV Watch
Rolex
Submariner “Hulk” Ref. 116610LV Watch
Revealed in 2010 and discontinued in 2020, this Sub (nicknamed “Hulk” for obvious reasons) is the only version of the iconic Rolex dive watch to feature a green dial and bezel. It also contains several notable upgrades from the previous Submariner generation, including a ceramic bezel and improved luminescence.
“I think there’s something so whimsical about the Hulk,” says Walker. “It has the heft and the utilitarian vibes associated with the Submariner, but it doesn’t take itself seriously. If you see someone wearing it, it often signals that they have a lot of other really interesting watches in the safe back at home.”
Rolex Daytona Platinum Ref. 126506-0002 Watch
Rolex
Daytona Platinum Ref. 126506-0002 Watch
Speaking of IYKYK Rolex references, the Platinum Daytona—which was the first production Rolex model to feature a display caseback—has been catnip for members of the watch Illuminati since its introduction in 2013.
“The ethos of the brand has always been tool watches, so if Rolex continues to march forward with display case backs, then it’s cool to own the first one,” Walker says. “And if they decide that they’re going to move back to a traditional case back, it’s cool to own something from the short period of time when this existed in production.”
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu Watch
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Bleu Watch
Few people personify the current vogue for high-end independent watchmaking like Francois Paul Journe, whose highly sought creations are now vying for records at auction alongside the likes of Patek and Rolex.
If you’re interested in getting on board with F.P. Journe (and have a six-figure budget to throw at one), this piece’s tantalum case and hand-wound movement make it a savvy choice. “The blue dial is very striking and tantalum is a material that is quite rare to see in watchmaking, so it’s one of the more special Journes available right now,” Walker adds.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo Ice Blue Watch
MB&F
Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo Ice Blue Watch
Another mainstay of the high-end indie watch world, MB&F takes a decidedly quirky approach to haute horlogerie, as the domed crystal and exposed movement of this perpetual calendar ably demonstrate.
“There’s such an avant-garde playfulness associated with MB&F’s watches, and the best examples are the perpetual calendars,” Walker says, noting that the Legacy Machine’s movement makes the notoriously finicky perpetual calendar function much easier to use. “MB&F has a very loyal set of collectors right now, and I think we’re going to look ahead a few years and see the brand be much larger than it is today.”
H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds 39 Steel Watch
H.Moser & Cie
Streamliner Small Seconds Watch
For anyone who appreciates the look of ’70s grails like the AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Streamliner offers a more minimalist take on the genre from Switzerland’s most irreverent up-and-coming watch brand, Walker says.
