Derek Guy, fashion writer and founder of Die, Workwear!, says to try and opt for the heaviest weight you can comfortable wear, regardless of the season. “Around 12–14 oz. is a good starting place. Lighter fabrics tend to lose their shape and don’t drape as cleanly, which can make the trousers look flimsy.”
Want Your Pants to Last? This Details Is a Good Sign
The web of microscopic details is easy to get caught up in, but Guy says there’s an easy way to check for quality. “But the real giveaway? Inlay—or more often, the lack of it.” The inlay is the extra fabric located at the seat and side seams of the pant and allows for easy alterations. “When companies are working with tight margins,” he says, “inlay is one of the first things they cut. High-end makers, on the other hand, leave generous inlay as a sign of quality—and as a practical gesture for alterations down the line.”
How Should Dress Pants Fit?
The built-in leeway to alter a pair of dress pants is important in dialing in a proper fit. Of course, taking advantage of the inlay can only get you so far, but Guy says when you’re looking for the right fit, it’s not so complicated. “Fit refers to a narrow set of technical criteria, and the guiding principle is simple: the trousers should hang cleanly.” It helps to check yourself out in a three-way mirror, if possible. Guy says to look for any areas where the clean lines of the drape are disrupted—flaring at the pockets, ripples at the legs, or fabric catching at the calves. Flared pockets usually means there’s not enough room through the hips or across the lap. If the back rise is too long, that can cause ripples at the back of the legs. And if the fabric is catching at the back of the legs, that’s a sign that the pants are too slim.
Tailors should be able to work within reason to alter a pair of dress pants to your taste, but “as a general rule,” Guy says, “the less you need to alter, the better the result will be.”
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